Marine construction is one of the projects that requires careful selection and the best dock system available in the industry. This generally depends on the purpose of the construction and development that is required. Due to technological advances, there are varieties of designs to choose from on the docks and you can find the most attractive design on the market that makes it perfect for those who do construction for tourist businesses. There are a number of characteristics that one should be aware of in the springs that one is selecting.
The first thing to consider in floating docks is the durability of the surface. The walking surface should have a concrete that will last a long time considering the fact that many people will use it, especially if it is for tourists. This basically means that the material used for the construction of the dock must be very durable and must be one of the best qualities on the market. It is also important to ensure that this concrete material used is designed in such a way that it cannot have any contact with salt water.
The second factor to consider when undertaking marine construction is the type of maintenance required for the dock. The maintenance that is required must be low, the dock being able to withstand different harsh conditions such as hurricanes with the strong weather with which it usually comes, harsh boat waves, strong winds, sun, salt water and also rain. The design of the dock must also be flexible as it can be adapted to any geographical environment and also easy installation based on project requirements.
It is also important to consider the stability of the floating dock builders that are being built. There should be no creaks of boards and wood being witnessed. This basically means that it should be able to withstand all weather conditions and still be as strong as it was from the beginning. The spring must also be versatile depending on its design. The piers also need to be safe enough so that many people can get through them in as long as possible. The repair should also be easy to do and also expansion when necessary.
A large percentage of anglers out there today can probably say that their first fishing experience was from the shore or dock. I still have a photo of myself at four years old, sitting on the bank with a three foot Zebco in hand and wearing my cowboy hat and boots.
Ah, those were the days.
Fishing from the shore is pretty much the same as fishing from a boat; you just have to think a little backwards. That is, in most cases, you have to cast out into the lake and retrieve towards the shore, versus the other way around. This guide will show different aspects of fishing from the bank, along with techniques that I have found to produce quality, shoreline fishing trips.
The first thing to remember is that fish usually hold tight along the bank and trudging down to the water’s edge, with gear and stuff jangling and making large amounts of racket is the first no-no. I’m not saying you have to belly crawl, but actually sneaking up on the bank is the best approach. A light step and slow quiet movements are optimal at best.
Try to set up shop at least twenty feet from the shore. Generally, in public parks and FWA’s, there are picnic tables nearby and are usually the optimal distance from the bank.
As far as tackle is concerned, less is more. Some shoreline anglers believe they have to bring all their gear and poles and if you’re not gonna venture off to other parts of the lake or river per say, I guess that’s alright. However, most anglers know you have to change spots in order increase your chances of catching more fish.
I don’t mean that you should leave the rest of your gear at home, it’s just that your car isn’t gonna be too far away. You can always bring too much, just leave the extra stuff in the trunk.
I usually take along two of each type of lure I may need for the conditions, one pole; two at the most and sometimes a cooler. The cooler is either for Panfish fishing or a place to put a fish in order to keep from spooking the others. When you catch a fish and just throw it back, that fish is stressed and frightened and thus spooks the other possible catches nearby.
When I venture off into the woods or to a secluded spot, it’s usually a decent hike to where I want to go. I have one small, plastic utility case, (actually it’s a used, plastic, wall hanging fixtures case that is sectioned off into four compartments. It’s the perfect size) a pair of pliers for removing hooks, a towel and a collapsible lunch bag to put everything into. I bring a couple of bags of Berkley Gulp plastic worms and one pole; two if I’m feeling frisky. That is usually all I need.
I put a two inch lipped minnow, a couple of small jigs, a small spinner and some extra hooks, swivels and weights in the plastic case. Everything but the pole fits in the lunch bag, the pole breaks down and I’m tearin’ off through the woods with nothing but the terrain to slow me down. If I need or want other lures that won’t fit in the case, I just put them in the bag and I can usually fit a bottle of water in there as well.
The point is, keep your gear to a minimum and you’ll be extra mobile. You don’t need the entire tackle box to fish from the shore, unless you’re pulling an all-nighter in one spot, then the situation may require everything and the kitchen sink.
Try to make your first cast from about ten feet away from the edge of the water. Look for the right conditions, (overhanging trees, sunken timber, or rocky points and cast parallel to the shoreline. Many shoreline anglers walk right up to the water and cast straight out as far as they can, often missing the fish right in front of them, or just a few feet down the shore.
You might catch a fish by casting out to the depths of your particular body of water however, chances are it’s gonna be a while, especially if you use a crank type lure or bait. In order to catch fish that far from shore you have to go deep and keep your presentation there for some time. As I mentioned earlier, most fish, even the big ones, hold tight to the shore.